My corset is finally bound! I took the easy way out, I think. I did it with my machine in a rather haphazard way. I don't really recommend this technique. In hindsight, as I say with every corset, it probably would have been easier and prettier to do it all by hand. Maybe, as I also find myself saying with every corset I make for myself, I'll rework the binding by hand one day. I'd worry about it more if it was for someone else, but it's only for my use and I'll really be the only one seeing it, so I suppose it will do.

    Now I'm up to making eyelets. Up to this point I've only inset metal ones. This time, however, I have decided to bind them by hand. I've also decided to make the eyelets in a pattern to accommodate spiral lacing. So far - so good. Although it is very time consuming, I think the effort will be worth it. I think I'll post a tutorial for you all to see how to make a bound eyelet – or, how I bind them. . . for real this time, I swear!

    So after much researching, internet crawling and debate, I finally ended up just winging the pattern of my corset's boning layout. I left a ½" space at each end for the piping, then allowed a 1/4" pocket for a bone, another ½" gap for eyelets, and followed the gap for the eyelets with ¼" pockets all the way to the eyelet strip on the other side. The original effigy corset is pretty rigidly boned. It's bone – to bone –to bone. Lotta bones. All in all, my own corset ended up with 60 ¼" steel bones. I think I've bullet proofed my costume. . .

Gap at side of bust

Back - you can see the bones only extend as far as the side seams

     I decided to try some things out. The last corset I made had bones butted next to each other continuously from side to side and stuck out funny around my bust and hit my armpits in a weird and uncomfortable way. This time I left a gap of boning on the side of the bust in hopes it might stick out less and be more comfy. Although this could be a pipe dream, we'll see soon. The other thing I did differently from my last corset was cut down on the length of the bones that are in the back of the corset. My previous corset was cut high in the back and the bones ran all the way up. Ick. I cut them shorter this time, once again hoping to make it more comfortable.  

 I ordered my bones from http://www.dragontowncorsetsupply.com/. They're my normal go-to corset suppliers. They have the best prices for pre-cut boning and offer different busks and lacing bones, if you need any of that as well.

Finally the white pencil has its day!

    Oh, the other change I made to this corset was my bone channel technique. Previously I have sewn channels to the interlining of the corset. This time I sewed the interlining to the outer fabric to make channels for the bones. This was a lot easier! Plus, I found a use for a white coloured pencil. . . I wonder now if the pocket channels will hold their own against the steel bones like the duck cloth channels do. . .

    No I am playing the waiting game of waiting for my bones!

    I'm back. I cut out my new outer fabric for my corset, and then sewed the back to the sides. After the side seams were in, I pressed the seams and laid the interlining and the outer layer out flat and stacked one on the other, and pinned all around the top. I then took the whole thing to the machine and set the stitch on the longest stitch setting to baste the two layers together at the top and fronts.

    Now here I have two things to contemplate – a. Do I want to sew on boning channels to put the bones into? B. How do I want the bones to be positioned?

    With corsets past I have just sewn channels (or ½ inch strips of duck cloth) onto the interlining in the pattern I want the bones in. I've also seen where people have sewn channels into the fabric by sewing the outer fabric and the interlining together and making pockets for the bones to go into. Now the first method is tried and true for me, while the latter is tempting because it saves me from having to go out to the fabric store tomorrow and having to buy more material. . . Oh what to do. . .? I think I'll crawl around on the web to help. 

    In regards to the matter on bone placement, the source of my pattern, The Tudor Tailor (ISBN 0713489855), suggest the boning be arranged this way (the top image) awful lot of bones! Even so, my previous entanglements with Tudor wear tells me this is necessary to provide that cylindrical silhouette. The pattern I used is awful similar to the effigy corset. . . I think I'll steal a look at others. . .   

    It's been a while since I added anything new (sorry)! During my silence I have been working on embroidering a new corset (the picture left shows the pattern I've franticly been embroidering onto white cotton)! I'm now half way through, but have run into a problem – I realize the inner lining, the same purple canvas I'm made the bumroll with, is going to show through! I worked so hard to fit this darn thing that I'm going to keep the embroidered fabric for another corset that I'll work on later at my leisure - a lady can never have too many corsets. 

     Now, as I was hunting through my stash to find something pretty, and hopefully purple, I came across a purple linen dress I had once started but never finished (I know this seems like a pattern, but I swear it isn't!). I discarded the project after realizing the dress was too scratchy to wear and too tight to add a lining to. The poor thing has spent three years in the bottom of a drawer hidden away with scraps and linings. . . so I think it is time is saw some light! It's a very pretty fabric. A lovely shade of lilac with some generic Asian print . . . I know, the print is so not period, but linen is! Does that count?

     I apologize if this post seems lacking, but I'll be able to update more frequently now that I've made life easier for myself! Also, in the near future, we can look forward to a pattern review or two!   

    Last night I found myself with some time so I decided to start in with my sewing. So fist off I set to repairing my corset. It looks. . . okay. But with such a tiny space and poor lining I think for now it's the best it will get. After that chore I set out to make a chemise and partlet. 

    Originally, the chemise was going to be purple with white sleeves. But the purple fabric was too rough I felt and swapped it out for a different fabric. It's very pretty – white with a light blue and silver pattern (left). I just can't stand to have boring undergarments! The sleeves are still white, however, I am tempted to just cut them off or make new ones because I forgot to lengthen the pattern and am left with sleeves that only reach to my forearms. That's going to drive me nuts, I just know it will!

   

 Putting the chemise on hold, I moved to the partlet. I used a white embroidered organza (left). It was fairly easy to make, but I'm not sure how I'll like it. I think I'll need to see it with the dress first. I don't have a picture of that, but I'll post it with the completed dress so you get the full efect - partlets are better that way ;)

The last project I attacked last night was a bumroll, made from purple duckcloth (left), I don't know if it's completely necessary but I'd rather have it just in case i get it all assembled and decided I want it. I attached gold grosgrain to it before sewing it all up so i could keep it on. the finished result always makes me laugh - it looks like one of those crescent travel pillows. My finished bumroll is a nice violation of Sumptuary laws! 

alright here's the process. . .

I cut out all the pieces (purple fleece - it's what I had on hand), then I put the face onto the kitty

I

I sewed all the pieces together and turned them right side out. Now we're ready for stuffing!

C

Check. Parts stuffed, time to sew 'em up and assemble the kitty. . . 

T

TA DAA! All done. She's small, as you can see she can fit in my hand. The pattern (or seamstress) needs some refinement and fine-tuning, but I think she's cute in her own way. . . 

M

Maybe I'll make her a dress. . .