Showing posts with label underpinings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label underpinings. Show all posts

10 August 2010

Bound Eyelet – Type 1


Let's bind some eyelets! This is one way I know; maybe you'd like to try? I took lots of pictures so I hope they help and give you confidence to try this yourself.
Before the how to, let's think – why would you chose to bind an eyelet rather than apply a grommet? First of all, it's period (period meaning it's what they would have used before 1830). In addition to being historically accurate, they're easier to apply that the metal grommets if you like upper body strength like I do, you don't have to worry out them popping out, and you don't need specialized tools.
Alright, the how to:
Materials:
Seam gauge: needed to you can space the holes accurately
Dressmaker's pen or pencil: to make out the eyelets
Needle: to help you pull the thread through the fabric, of course – choose one in a heavy gauge if your corset has a substantial interlining!
Thread: choose one that is STRONG! Try upholstery thread, some hand quilting threads, or machine embroidery threads. Remember that lacings are going through those eyelets and rubbing over your stitching. Pick a thread that can withstand it.
Awl, sharpened stick (really, no joke)/pencil: to make the holes. Something pointy like those will stretch the fabric and prevent ravelling. You can also use scissors or that weird hole punch thing that you buy at Jo Ann's to set grommets, but remember that once you cut into the fabric, it becomes weaker.
Ruler: lets you make sure the eyelets are in a straight line.

 
NOTE: These instructions are being written referring to your corset. If this is your first time trying this method, please try it out on scrap fabrics! Everyone needs to practice skills before they go to their corset >_<.

 
Steps:

  1. Find your eyelet channel. Take the ruler and with your dressmaker's pen draw a line from top to bottom of the corset right down the middle. This will let you set your eyelets in a nice strait line.

  2. Decide how your eyelets will be spaced. Take your seam gauge and dressmaker's pen and plot out where your eyelets will be.

  3. Take your pointy implement or scissors or punch, and make the eyelet holes. It may seem scary at first if this is your first time making a corset, but don't worry – you need to do this! If you're using a sharpened skewer or pencil to make your holes, please be very careful and mind your fingers!! Last thing you need is blood all over your pretty corset!



  4. Holes all in? Good. Grab your thread and needle and cut a very long piece of thread. Then match cut end to cut end of thread and put both cut ends through the needle. Tie all cut ends to the loop side so that you're sewing with 4 threads instead of one or two.

  5. Ready now? Take a deep breath and let's go: insert the needle into the back side of the corset and pull through to the front. Put the needle through the hole. Insert the needle through the threads just under the knot and pull to secure,

  6. Push the needle through to the front near your first stitch. Pull thread through all the way, pulling tight.

  7. Put the needle through the hole, push through back half way.

  8. Wrap the thread behind the needle. Pull needle though front of corset.
    Take a stitch over the stitch you just made to secure "L" shape.

  9. Insert the needle close to your last stitch from the back and repeat. Keep on and it will look like this:


    To finish the eyelet, continue doing what have been doing to make those "L" shapes. When you make your last securing stitch, tie off the threads on the underside of the corset.

 
I hope this tutorial helps you. If you have any questions please ask. Remember to try this method and perfect it before you actually implement it on your actual corset. 

05 August 2010

Bound to You


    My corset is finally bound! I took the easy way out, I think. I did it with my machine in a rather haphazard way. I don't really recommend this technique. In hindsight, as I say with every corset, it probably would have been easier and prettier to do it all by hand. Maybe, as I also find myself saying with every corset I make for myself, I'll rework the binding by hand one day. I'd worry about it more if it was for someone else, but it's only for my use and I'll really be the only one seeing it, so I suppose it will do.
    Now I'm up to making eyelets. Up to this point I've only inset metal ones. This time, however, I have decided to bind them by hand. I've also decided to make the eyelets in a pattern to accommodate spiral lacing. So far - so good. Although it is very time consuming, I think the effort will be worth it. I think I'll post a tutorial for you all to see how to make a bound eyelet – or, how I bind them. . . for real this time, I swear!

27 July 2010

Skeletal Anatomy of a New Corset


    So after much researching, internet crawling and debate, I finally ended up just winging the pattern of my corset's boning layout. I left a ½" space at each end for the piping, then allowed a 1/4" pocket for a bone, another ½" gap for eyelets, and followed the gap for the eyelets with ¼" pockets all the way to the eyelet strip on the other side. The original effigy corset is pretty rigidly boned. It's bone – to bone –to bone. Lotta bones. All in all, my own corset ended up with 60 ¼" steel bones. I think I've bullet proofed my costume. . .
Gap at side of bust
Back - you can see the bones only extend as far as the side seams
     I decided to try some things out. The last corset I made had bones butted next to each other continuously from side to side and stuck out funny around my bust and hit my armpits in a weird and uncomfortable way. This time I left a gap of boning on the side of the bust in hopes it might stick out less and be more comfy. Although this could be a pipe dream, we'll see soon. The other thing I did differently from my last corset was cut down on the length of the bones that are in the back of the corset. My previous corset was cut high in the back and the bones ran all the way up. Ick. I cut them shorter this time, once again hoping to make it more comfortable.  
 I ordered my bones from http://www.dragontowncorsetsupply.com/. They're my normal go-to corset suppliers. They have the best prices for pre-cut boning and offer different busks and lacing bones, if you need any of that as well.
Finally the white pencil has its day!
    Oh, the other change I made to this corset was my bone channel technique. Previously I have sewn channels to the interlining of the corset. This time I sewed the interlining to the outer fabric to make channels for the bones. This was a lot easier! Plus, I found a use for a white coloured pencil. . . I wonder now if the pocket channels will hold their own against the steel bones like the duck cloth channels do. . .
    No I am playing the waiting game of waiting for my bones!

22 July 2010

Decisions


    I'm back. I cut out my new outer fabric for my corset, and then sewed the back to the sides. After the side seams were in, I pressed the seams and laid the interlining and the outer layer out flat and stacked one on the other, and pinned all around the top. I then took the whole thing to the machine and set the stitch on the longest stitch setting to baste the two layers together at the top and fronts.
    Now here I have two things to contemplate – a. Do I want to sew on boning channels to put the bones into? B. How do I want the bones to be positioned?
    With corsets past I have just sewn channels (or ½ inch strips of duck cloth) onto the interlining in the pattern I want the bones in. I've also seen where people have sewn channels into the fabric by sewing the outer fabric and the interlining together and making pockets for the bones to go into. Now the first method is tried and true for me, while the latter is tempting because it saves me from having to go out to the fabric store tomorrow and having to buy more material. . . Oh what to do. . .? I think I'll crawl around on the web to help. 

    In regards to the matter on bone placement, the source of my pattern, The Tudor Tailor (ISBN 0713489855), suggest the boning be arranged this way (the top image) awful lot of bones! Even so, my previous entanglements with Tudor wear tells me this is necessary to provide that cylindrical silhouette. The pattern I used is awful similar to the effigy corset. . . I think I'll steal a look at others. . .   

Update


    It's been a while since I added anything new (sorry)! During my silence I have been working on embroidering a new corset (the picture left shows the pattern I've franticly been embroidering onto white cotton)! I'm now half way through, but have run into a problem – I realize the inner lining, the same purple canvas I'm made the bumroll with, is going to show through! I worked so hard to fit this darn thing that I'm going to keep the embroidered fabric for another corset that I'll work on later at my leisure - a lady can never have too many corsets. 
     Now, as I was hunting through my stash to find something pretty, and hopefully purple, I came across a purple linen dress I had once started but never finished (I know this seems like a pattern, but I swear it isn't!). I discarded the project after realizing the dress was too scratchy to wear and too tight to add a lining to. The poor thing has spent three years in the bottom of a drawer hidden away with scraps and linings. . . so I think it is time is saw some light! It's a very pretty fabric. A lovely shade of lilac with some generic Asian print . . . I know, the print is so not period, but linen is! Does that count?
     I apologize if this post seems lacking, but I'll be able to update more frequently now that I've made life easier for myself! Also, in the near future, we can look forward to a pattern review or two!   

28 June 2010

Embroidered Corset


I made this corset last year. It's embroidered brown linen with pink trim and lining. The corset has an interlining of pink duck cloth and is stiffened with steel bones. 

22 June 2010

Undergarments


    Last night I found myself with some time so I decided to start in with my sewing. So fist off I set to repairing my corset. It looks. . . okay. But with such a tiny space and poor lining I think for now it's the best it will get. After that chore I set out to make a chemise and partlet. 

    Originally, the chemise was going to be purple with white sleeves. But the purple fabric was too rough I felt and swapped it out for a different fabric. It's very pretty – white with a light blue and silver pattern (left). I just can't stand to have boring undergarments! The sleeves are still white, however, I am tempted to just cut them off or make new ones because I forgot to lengthen the pattern and am left with sleeves that only reach to my forearms. That's going to drive me nuts, I just know it will!
   






 Putting the chemise on hold, I moved to the partlet. I used a white embroidered organza (left). It was fairly easy to make, but I'm not sure how I'll like it. I think I'll need to see it with the dress first. I don't have a picture of that, but I'll post it with the completed dress so you get the full efect - partlets are better that way ;)




The last project I attacked last night was a bumroll, made from purple duckcloth (left), I don't know if it's completely necessary but I'd rather have it just in case i get it all assembled and decided I want it. I attached gold grosgrain to it before sewing it all up so i could keep it on. the finished result always makes me laugh - it looks like one of those crescent travel pillows. My finished bumroll is a nice violation of Sumptuary laws! 

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